Solderless JP1 Box

1/4/02 UPDATE:

Since I made this Solderless design, there has been a huge simplification of the solder version of the JP1 interface. As it stands now, you only need 1 diode and 1 resistor. The whole thing can fit in a DB25 connector and runs off the batteries from the remote. I highly recommend building this interface over the Solderless version. The solderless version was helpful when the interface was complex and required alot of soldering, but now it is actually more time consuming to build the Solderless version than to build the new simple solder interface. You can get all the info on the simple JP1 interface by joining the JP1 usergroup at Yahoo Groups. You can find the simple interface design in the files section in the Interface design folder. The file is called SimpleRev4.zip

I have just completed making a solderless JP1 interface box. I did this because I'm no good at soldering, so I tried to find an alternative way to build a JP1 box. I know there must be others out there who want to make a box, but are as intimidated with the soldering as I was. So I'm going to explain how I made my box, and what parts I used. If you have any questions, you can email me.

Parts

Basically I used most of the parts from Rob's page on making the JP1 box, but not all of them. I will put a complete list of what I ordered from Radio Shack here, even though it may be a little redundant.


Radio Shack

Part description
Radio Shack #
Unit Price
Quantity
Total Price
solderless breadboard
$7.99
1
$7.99
1k resistors (5 pack)
$0.49
1
$0.49
100k resistors (5 pk)
$0.49
1
$0.49
1N4001 diode (2 pk)
$0.49
3
$1.47
74HCT125
$0.99
1
$0.99
7805 +5V regulator
$1.49
1
$1.49
22uF electrolytic cap
$0.69
1
$0.69
0.1uF cap (2 pk)
$0.79
1
$0.79
Larger Project Box
$3.29
1
$3.29
Grand Total
  
$17.69


Circuit City

I bought 2 parts at Circuit City. Both parts are made by Advanced AESP, and they are used to make the parallel connector for the box. Unfortunately, Circuit City does not list them through their website, and the Advanced AESP website is under construction

  1. DB25F Crimp Kit with Hood (K25FCU): This is a DB25F connector with no connectors in the holes. You can buy Female Crimp pins which can be attached to wires and then pushed into the DB23F connector to make your connections.

  2. Crimp Pins Female 100/pk (KPINF/100): These are the Crimp pins that you insert in to the DB25F connector.

Sadly, Circuit City does now have these parts listed on their web site, but I'm sure you can find them if you go there.

Another possibility is to use a DB25 (PC Parallel Port) Connector as suggested in Rob's page. You can get one HERE. Get part # PLATE25F



Other Things to Get

  • You will also need to buy some insulated copper wire to make the connections. I bought some at Radio Shack, but I don't remember the part #. The wire was ~20 gauge. I will find the part number the next time I go to Radio Shack.

  • You will need to have a 3ft DB25M/DB25M parallel cable to connect the JP1 box to your computer. You can get one of these at any good computer store.

  • You will need to get a 6 Pin connector with cable. Luckly I had one kicking around. I used a cable that had been used to set the SCSI ID in an external case. Your best bet to get one is to follow Rob's advice on his page. You can also buy a 6 Pin connector from Mousser electronics, but it does not come with a cable, so you would have to solder wires onto it

 

OK, so let's see how I did it!